Appellation: Columbia Valley, $28
This true Port-style release marked the beginning of this Italian-themed brand by Woodinvilles Washington Wine & Beverage Co. the parent of Glen Fiona and Silver Lake. Michael Haddox, now with Gallo, started this just before he founded The Winemakers Loft in Prosser. This even split of Tinta Madeira, Tinto Cão, Touriga Naçional and Souzao is showing its age nicely, starting with a rich nose of dried plum, golden raisin and dark chocolate. The presentation on the palate is bold, dark, chocolaty and luscious at 8.6% residual sugar. (Vin Dolce translates to sweet wine.) Its balance is remarkable because as the tannins slowly add texture, those dark fruit tones keep up while the alcohol is resolved from the start. These wines are available at the Silver Lake tasting room. Rated "Outstanding" by Great Northwest Wine. (19.5 percent alcohol)
Cases produced: 103
Food pairings: Blue cheeses, chocolate mousse.
Silver Lake Winery, 15029 Woodinville-Redmond Road, Woodinville, 425-485-2437, www.silverlakewinery.com.